Designers from the burgeoning males’s vogue universe grabbed the highlight on Thursday in Paris, nabbing the 2 high prizes on the 2021 ANDAM awards, the thirty second version of the annual design competitors.
“We’re seeing men experiment more with clothing. It’s a very pivotal time,” mentioned British males’s put on designer Bianca Saunders, who scooped the grand prize, which comes with an endowment of 300,000 euros plus one 12 months of mentoring from Cédric Charbit, chief government officer of Balenciaga.
Saunders mentioned she plans to indicate her spring 2022 assortment at London Fashion Week in September throughout what is often the ladies’s showcase — chatting with the significance of males’s put on in vogue at the moment.
The designer mentioned she would “wait for the mentoring to kick in” earlier than deciding greatest make the most of the prize cash, together with her on-line retailer amongst key priorities.
While drawing on her British and West Indian background, Saunders additionally questions present notions of masculinity in her designs.
Bianca Saunders, fall 2021
Courtesy of Bianca Saunders
“My main aim for the brand was to create that balance. You get the really over-masculine guy and effeminate guy existing in the same world. Even the pieces can be seen as slightly more feminine. I think this is how I create the energy that brings something different, and more things to the men’s wear conversation,” the Royal College of Art graduate instructed WWD just lately.
Charbit lauded that Saunders “presented a solid and unique project anchored in the now and today’s values.”
She beat out the opposite six finalists for the primary award — GmbH, Wales Bonner, Area, Rokh, Ludovic de Saint-Sernin and Casablanca — although Charbit revealed he would provide a 12 months of mentoring to Grace Wales Bonner, additionally a males’s put on specialist.
The Pierre Bergé Prize, which focuses on younger French firms and is value 100,000 euros, went to EgonLab, a model launched in 2019 by Florentin Glémarec and Kévin Nompeix. The duo confirmed their spring 2022 effort throughout Paris Fashion Week Men’s final month, peppering the gathering with chivalric references.
Glémarec and Nompeix launched their model, which they invoice as genderless, simply earlier than the pandemic. “Working outside the pandemic is going to be new for us,” Nompeix mentioned.
They plan to make use of the prize cash to develop their workforce and stage a bodily vogue present in January.
“We think a brand should cater to and defend all genders. Inclusivity is not just about targeting a minority. Real inclusivity is when you talk to everyone and we want to go the whole way with that approach,” he mentioned. “We think it’s the future of fashion.”
Putting their cash the place their mouth is, the duo enlisted Glémarec’s grandparents, René and Marie-Louise, to mannequin some appears to be like of their presentation to the jury earlier that afternoon.
EgonLab males’s, spring 2022
Courtesy of EgonLab
The Fashion Accessories Prize, which comes with a sum of fifty,000 euros, went to leather-based items specialist Aswad.
Sonia Ahmimou based the Aswad leather-based items workshop in Paris in 2015 after spending greater than a decade studying the métier at Louis Vuitton, Moynat and Hermès.
She posits her aesthetic “at the crossroads of Moroccan and French craftsmanship,” yielding modern baggage, some with zippered exterior compartments, together with small leather-based items.
Aswad
Courtesy of Aswad
The winners have been revealed at an open-air ceremony within the picturesque gardens of the Palais-Royal in Paris, attended by high vogue executives, designers, members of the jury, and journalists.
The different finalists for the Pierre Bergé Prize have been Ester Manas, Uniforme Paris and Charles de Vilmorin, whereas the opposite contenders for the Accessories Prize have been jeweler Samuel François and Austrian studio Published By, which makes chrome baggage and silver jewellery.
This 12 months’s version, with Charbit as president of the jury, boasted a star-studded record of visitor jurors, headlined by Lalisa Manobal, identified merely as Lisa to Blackpink’s legion of followers, together with Chinese singer Chris Lee and vogue designers Kerby Jean-Raymond and Phoebe Philo.
Charbit had determined to throw the door open to all method of inventive sorts to replicate a altering topography of affect as the standard vogue gatekeepers — journal editors and retailers — yield to photographers, educators, enterprise disruptors, stylists, entertainers, digital enterprises and next-gen media personalities.
The different visitor jurors included French singer and actress Lou Doillon; photographer Juergen Teller and his inventive companion Dovile Drizyte; researcher and educator Linda Loppa; investor and entrepreneur Natalie Massenet, and Amazon’s head of vogue path Sally Singer.
Given journey restrictions and different pandemic-related challenges, a lot of the jury work was executed remotely.
A separate choice committee granted the Fashion Innovation Award to Finnish start-up Spinnova, which promotes cellulose-based supplies as a cost-efficient, environmentally pleasant and most popular choice for manufacturers.
Created in 1989 by Dufour with the assist of the French Ministry of Culture and the DEFI and with the late Pierre Bergé as president, ANDAM — the French acronym for National Association of the Development of the Fashion Arts — has been a springboard for designers who would go on to realize worldwide recognition.
Past winners embody Martin Margiela, Viktor & Rolf, Christophe Lemaire, Y/Project and Jeremy Scott.
ANDAM was one of many first vogue prizes so as to add a yearlong mentorship, beginning in 2011 when luxurious government Ralph Toledano, now president of the Fédération de la Haute Couture et de la Mode, was paired with that 12 months’s winner Anthony Vaccarello, now the inventive director of Saint Laurent.
ANDAM can also be supported by massive company sponsors, which now embody Balenciaga, Chanel, Chloé, Fondation Pierre Bergé-Yves Saint Laurent, Galeries Lafayette, Google, Hermès, Kering, Lacoste, Longchamp, LVMH Moet Hennessy Louis Vuitton, L’Oréal Paris, OTB, Premiere Classe, Saint Laurent, Swarovski and Tomorrow. Executives from most of these corporations comprise everlasting members of the jury.
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